Skin care oil blends
Whether you make your own oil blends or purchase oil blends it is important to know that the oil you choose for your skin care oil blends have different properties. Lets review these properties so it makes a little more sense when you are looking at the ingredient list.
Oils come from vegetable or animal sources, today I am going to concentrate on plant oils.
Oils are lipids, they are found all over the world. They come from fruits nuts, seeds, kernels, parts of a tree, grasses, beans and fruit pulp. Oils are extracted by the plant by several methods including pressure, heat or solvents.
Chemical makeup of skin care oil blends.
There are a few things that all oils have in common. Each oil has 3 carbon chains, this is why you may hear the term “triglyceride”. Tri for 3 chains. Each oil differs in chemical composition. This is dependent on the saturation of the carbon atoms as well as the length of the carbon chains. The composition of the oil will affect how the oil feels on our skin as well as the shelf life.
Saturated fatty acids
If the carbons have hydrogen attached to them it is referred to as a saturated fatty acid. Saturated oils are more stable when exposed to heat, this is why they are used for cooking.
The saturation of the oil has to do with its appearance. This is why some lipids are liquids whereas others are butters. Butters are poly-saturated oils. The saturated fatty acids tend to stay on the skin and absorbs slowly. It can help prevent transepidermal water loss.
On the other hand, the more unsaturated the oil is the quicker it will absorb into the skin. Unsaturated oils tend to give a lighter feel.
Refined vs unrefined skin care oil blends
Oils may be filtered to the reduce particles in the oil. Oils may also be refined to decrease the smell and dark color of the oil as most people do not like these two properties in their skin care oil blend. Imagine having a dark brown serum. Would you use it? Probably not! Unfortunately when refining oils you lose some of their components that are beneficial.
Different components in our skin care oil blends
Oleic acid also known as Omega 9 fatty acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid which occurs naturally in many animal and vegetable sources. The term ‘oleic’ acid is most likely derived from olive oil. Olive oil which is a common source oleic acid. Oleic acid has moisturizing effects on the skin. It has also been shown to have antioxidant properties as well. Oleic acid is also thought to reduce inflammation.
Linoleic acid also called omega-6 is a polyunsaturated fatty acid. It is considered an essential fatty acid because our bodies cannot produce it. Linoleic acid helps make ceramide in our skin. Ceramide is important as it helps prevent dry skin. Linoleic acid has been shown to helps prevent blockage of the pores and reduce acne. It is lightweight and absorbs readily into the skin.
Oils with high linoleic acid typically have shorter half life, it is an unsaturated oil.
Oils can contain,
Carotenoids are antioxidants.
Polyphenols are plant substances that have antioxidant properties.
Phytosterols are compounds that act like cholesterol, they come from plants. I did a post on these compounds.
Tocopherol are fat-soluble alcohols with antioxidant properties, important in the stabilization of cell membranes. It is in the family of vitamin E and helps prolong an oils shelf life before it goes rancid.
Vitamins in the oil. Some oils are naturally high in vitamins.
Rosehip oil is high in vitamins A and C. Vitamin A is a natural retinoid that helps reduce the signs of aging and Vitamin C can help reduce sun damage.
ArtNaturals 100% Pure Rosehip Seed Oil – (4 Fl Oz / 120ml) – 3 Piece Gift Set – Cold Pressed & Unrefined – Natural Moisturizer for Dry Skin, Fine Lines and Scars – for Face, Nails, Hair and Skin
Oils not only provide moisturization but they have some components that are beneficial to our skin. These is why you are seeing a lot of oil only blends on the market now. These products are anhydrous, which means without water. The benefits of these skin care oil blends rely on the inherent properties of the oil itself rather than additives.
Comedogenicity scale of our skin care oil blends
Some oil are more likely to cause an acne breakout than other types of oils. Comedogenic refers to an ingredient that can block a pore. Clogged pores can become inflamed and cause blackheads and acne.
Make sure you know what oils are more likely to acne breakouts if you are putting them on your skin.
0 – Will Not Clog Pores
1 – Low probability
2 – Moderately Low
3 – Moderate
4 – Fairly High
5 – High probability it will clog pores
You can do a search for comedogenicity of a specific oil.
Scent of the oil
An oil needs to smell good if people are going to buy it. I prefer non scented products, to me scent means more additives that do not necessarily make the product any better. That being said some of the oils have a scent without any additives. Although avocado is a great moiturizing oil I have heard many people complain about the scent of it.
Sesame seed oil, sweet almond oil and shea butter are common oils in skin care but if you do not like a nutty smell you may not like the scent of these oils.
Coconut has a sweet scent to it.
Sunflower has a neutral scent to it.
Storage of skin care oil blends
Oils should be stored in a cool dark place. We mentioned that pils have antioxidants, antioxidants are sensitive to light. This is why some oils are sold in a dark amber containers. Oils can go rancid, you can usually tell an oil is bad by its taste and smell.